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The Bishop of Barbecue


Middle-aged men in summer have one thing on their minds: barbecue grills. Women in bathing suits are no match for a man's thrill at firing up his barbecue grill. The primal instincts of the hunter-gatherer can only find fulfillment in the sizzle and pop of a flank steak lined with the grid of the grill after each flip of the grill-master. The smoke rises as the warrior-king sends smoke signals into the sky to indicate another conquest as imagined in a bygone primal century.

I recently had trouble with my grill, which would only heat up to about 200 degrees even though I had tried two full propane tanks, neither of which would work. This bout of grill impotence was unnerving because men measure their summer manhood by their barbecue-ability. It lasted about two months over summer and even stretched into September. Time after time I returned to the house with half-cooked morsels of meat as I was unable to finish the job. I took the grill apart, cleaned it, and put it back together. No change. One day in the Spring, it had seemed to work properly for a few minutes, only to return to halfway heating. Men would come over and try to fix my grill, but you don't really want another man showing you up in your own garage on your own grill. But no one could fix it. My self-esteem dropped precipitously as I envisioned a summer of hamburgers cooked indoors in the kitchen, a ruinous thought. It was like the Bible story of Sisera, whom the text points out was killed by a woman. (The rationale apparently is that a man should be only be killed by another man in battle, not a woman.) And a man should be cooking the meat on the grill in the summer, not a woman in the kitchen. In the summer, a man is supposed to be outside, listening to the ballgame on the radio, sweating big drops of perspiration in travail over t-bones. This is a middle-aged man's summer glory since he can no longer show off a golden tan and six-pack abs after middle age wreaks havoc on his hair and body. But a middle-aged man can be inspired by a fired-up grill.

A fellow Christian minister showed me a whole new level of barbecuing competence last summer. He used a charcoal grill, the ultimate test of a grilling warrior who must rely on skill and patience to bring the coals to just the right temperature for grilling instead of relying on the newest technology in gas grilling to light up. The charcoal heating-up process normally takes about half an hour and a number of sprays of charcoal lighter fluid. But this mighty barbecue warrior bishop took grilling to a whole new level when he pulled out a small propane tank with a blow torch attached to it. He lit the blow torch and went to working, scorching, torching and pummeling the coals into white-hot submission. Within two minutes, he had blow-torched the coals to a state of red-hot readiness. This was extreme barbecuing and machismo rolled into one, a man mastering the elements: earth, wind, and fire subdued by a middle-aged barbecue bishop in an ordinary suburban backyard in Teaneck, New Jersey. “Youth is wasted on the young,” but middle age is not wasted when a man masters his universe in backyard barbecue brilliance.  I believe I saw the Bishop of Barbecue that day.

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